Henry Poole celebrates 220 years with an exclusive Napoleon III collection

In the world of fine tailoring, excellence is not defined solely by impeccable cuts, elegant silhouettes, or a tailor’s ability to transform flat cloth into perfectly structured garments. Equally important is the trust a tailoring house earns over generations. That is why royal warrants represent far more than decorative emblems, they are enduring endorsements of craftsmanship. Monarchs have always had access to the finest makers, so their continued patronage speaks louder than any advertising campaign.

Few names illustrate this better than Henry Poole. Over the course of more than two centuries, the Savile Row tailor has received more than 40 royal warrants and has maintained an uninterrupted relationship with the British royal household since the reign of Queen Victoria. As the company celebrates its 220th anniversary, a look through its archives uncovered a particularly remarkable chapter: a royal warrant granted by Napoleon III in 1858.

Among the emperor’s recorded commissions was an order for a fabric described as “superfine blue.” At the same time, Italian textile mill Vitale Barberis Canonico, which frequently supplied fabrics to Napoleon III, discovered a matching blue preserved in its own archives from the very same period. That shared historical record inspired both companies to bring the long-forgotten cloth back to life.

Rather than creating a simple reproduction, the two houses combined historical research with modern textile technology to reinterpret the original fabric. According to Henry Poole Managing Director Simon Cundey, the goal was to faithfully honour the “superfine blue” documented in both archives. After exploring numerous shades, the team blended a soft pastel blue with a deeper RAF blue, weaving the result into a lightweight herringbone flannel that balances subtlety with distinction. The fabric was released in March 2026 as part of the company’s anniversary celebrations.

If Henry Poole represents the pinnacle of bespoke tailoring, Vitale Barberis Canonico occupies a similarly respected position in the world of textiles. Although its influence is woven into countless garments, the mill itself often remains behind the scenes. Under the direction of Creative Director Francesco Barberis Canonico, the company has become known among cloth enthusiasts as a quiet force within the industry, many people have admired its fabrics without ever realising where they originated. Founded in 1663, Vitale Barberis Canonico predates countless institutions that proudly promote their heritage. Yet despite its centuries-long history, the Italian mill has consistently balanced tradition with innovation, combining technical expertise with a forward-looking approach instead of relying solely on nostalgia.

At a time when many collaborations are driven by branding exercises, this partnership is rooted in genuine historical evidence. Independent archives from two separate houses recorded the same client, the same period, and the same fabric, giving the project an authenticity rarely seen today. It has been compared to rediscovering two halves of a letter separated for more than 160 years, or reuniting the two Breguet watches worn by opposing sides during the Battle of Waterloo.

Considerable care was taken to ensure that the revived fabric never felt like a theatrical imitation. Instead, the project embraces authenticity, reflecting the values long associated with Savile Row, where clients are quick to recognise anything that appears contrived.

That philosophy is perhaps most evident in one important decision: the cloth is available exclusively for bespoke tailoring. There is no ready-to-wear version and no attempt to broaden its appeal through mass production. The exclusivity is presented as a deliberate expression of confidence in traditional craftsmanship.

Royal warrants, archival discoveries, Biella’s historic weaving mills and Savile Row’s tailoring workshops ultimately form parts of the same story. In 1859, a bolt of blue cloth travelled from Biella to London to become a garment worthy of an emperor. In 2026, that same journey has been retraced. For those who have long regarded Vitale Barberis Canonico as one of the industry's defining textile producers, the collaboration offers welcome recognition of its enduring contribution.

The Napoleon III collection, which also includes accessories such as cufflinks and pocket squares, is ultimately less about revisiting history than demonstrating that the standards which earned these houses their reputations remain firmly intact today.

Pictures: Henry Poole, The Rake