From depth to trend: How orange dials in watches took over
- Antonio Ljubic
- 19. kol
- 5 min čitanja
The color orange on a watch dial wasn’t born in a design studio. It emerged out of necessity, from the murky depths of the ocean, where visibility could mean survival. In the 1960s, as recreational and professional diving surged, legibility underwater became a top priority. Watchmakers began experimenting with dial colors that would remain visible in low-light conditions and through the thick greenish-blue haze at depth. Amid various tests, one color consistently outperformed the rest, orange.
Bright and high-contrast, orange proved far easier to read than black or navy under water, especially at greater depths where red tones fade first in the light spectrum. Doxa, often credited as the pioneer in this field, launched its orange-dialed SUB 300 in 1967 in collaboration with diving legend Jacques Cousteau. Since then, orange has taken on a life of its own.
We have gathered the most iconic watches featuring orange dials, from vintage-inspired divers to bold modern designs. Get ready to dive in.
Doxa SUB 200 with Steel Bezel
Few watches carry the spirit of orange dials so successfully like the Doxa SUB 200. This model pays direct hommage to the pioneering SUB 300, offering a more accessible format without losing the soul of the original. The 42mm case is cushion-shaped, sturdy, and finished with just enough polish to give it a modern lift. But the star remains the orange dial, matte in finish and paired with crisp indices and the signature oversized minute hand, all designed with underwater legibility in mind.
Doxa SUB 200 (left) & Doxa SUB 300 (right)
Despite its tool-watch origins, the SUB 200 transitions easily to everyday wear. It carries a certain retro cool with the steel bezel offering a cleaner aesthetic compared to the more technical look of Doxa’s signature bezels. This makes this model perfect for someone who appreciates vintage design without needing the full saturation of dive specs.
Price: (€1.000-€1.500)
U-Boat Darkmoon 44 Orange IPB
U-Boat’s Darkmoon 44 Orange IPB is a design-forward timepiece that takes the concept of visibility and turns it into visual impact. The deep orange dial is set beneath a domed crystal, suspended in oil, creating a seamless visual effect where the hands appear to float. The black IP-coated case adds contrast and modernity, making the orange stand out even more dramatically.
Though it’s quartz-driven, the Darkmoon does offer something unique that almost feels like wearing a piece of art. U-Boat’s Italian design language is evident in every curve, and while it might not have the historical dive pedigree of others on this list, it more than makes up for it in presence and innovation.
Price: (€1.500-€1.900)
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Orange Diver
The Aquaracer Professional 300 in orange brings high-performance modern dive aesthetics into sharp focus. With a 43mm angular case, black ceramic bezel, and 300 meters of water resistance, this watch means business. The orange dial is punchy but not overwhelming, enhanced by sunray brushing that adds depth under changing light.
TAG Heuer has done an excellent job refining the Aquaracer’s design over the years, making it feel both contemporary and grounded in function. The 12-sided bezel and rubber strap give it a distinct identity among divers, and the automatic Calibre 5 inside keeps things reliable. Whether paired with boardshorts or a casual summer jacket, this is a watch that handles both adventure and style.
Price: (€3.400-€3.900)
Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Compression 53 (Orange Dial)
Zodiac has made a strong comeback by leaning into its colorful 1960s heritage, and the Super Sea Wolf Compression 53 in orange is one of its most iconic revivals. The orange dial is bright, glossy, and unmistakably retro, paired with a brushed steel case and signature squared-off hour hand. It feels like something you’d find on a postcard from Cannes, circa 1969.
With 200 meters of water resistance, a Swiss automatic movement, and solid bracelet construction, it delivers real-world performance.
Price: (€1.000-€1.500)
Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Shades “Saffron”
Omega’s Aqua Terra in the “Saffron” shade offers a different interpretation of orange, less lifeguard buoy, more Italian aperitivo. The 38mm case is sleek and symmetrical, part of the Shades collection which explores new colors. The saffron dial is sun-brushed, changing from amber to tangerine depending on the light.
Inside beats Omega’s Co-Axial Master Chronometer movement, offering antimagnetic properties, exceptional precision, and a long service interval.
Price: (€7.500-€8.300)
Seiko 5 Sports SKX (Orange Dial)
This reimagining of the beloved (now discontinued) SKX series brings the iconic shape into a new era under the Seiko 5 Sports line. The orange dial variant is bold and purposeful, reminiscent of early Seiko divers that earned cult status among military and adventure communities. The dial is matte, the indices large and clear, and the case retains the unmistakable SKX curves. It’s the kind of watch that knows exactly where it came from.
While it lacks ISO certification as a true diver, the Seiko 5 Sports still offers 100 meters of water resistance, a durable automatic movement, and the brand’s famously dependable build quality. This version with the orange dial is particularly popular among new collectors and seasoned enthusiasts alike. It delivers heritage, fun, and daily usability without pretense.
Price: (€400-€700)
Breitling Superocean 36 (Orange Dial)
Its eye-catching orange dial version offers a perfect sporty style, all within a compact 36mm case size. Originally designed as a professional dive watch, the Superocean series has long been celebrated for its robustness and legibility under water, and the vibrant orange dial continues that legacy by providing excellent visibility in low-light or underwater conditions. This smaller diameter model is ideal for those who prefer a more understated wrist presence without sacrificing the technical capabilities expected from a Breitling dive watch.
The orange dial is paired with luminous hands and markers, ensuring clarity at a glance, while the unidirectional bezel allows precise dive timing. Powered by Breitling’s reliable automatic movement and finished with a comfortable rubber strap, this model combines everyday wearability with the adventurous spirit of a true diver’s instrument.
Price: (€6.000-€6.400)
Few colors carry such a complex legacy as orange. What began as a pragmatic choice for underwater legibility in the golden age of mechanical dive watches has gradually transformed into a trend, without ever losing sight of its functional origins. Brands like Doxa were among the earliest to recognize orange’s unique visibility under water, using it not for fashion but survival. Seiko followed with purpose-built tools, making orange dials a practical part of the working diver’s gear. Nowadays, modern brands also follow in the footsteps of those early pioneers, embracing orange not just as a functional color but as a design signature. Independent makers and heritage giants alike have reintroduced orange dials in both limited editions and core collections, recognizing their ability to evoke energy, warmth, and technical authenticity.
Today’s orange-dialed watches speak to a generation that appreciates vintage roots, built for everyday wear, but with a nod to the era when bold color served a vital purpose beneath the surface.
Pictures: Hodinkee, OracleOfTime, WatchesAndCrystals, TheWatchPages, Time&Watches